Working on the top beam mortising, etc., continued. This project, long in germination and drawing, is a 19th century French Sawhorse design by Louis Mazerolle, and serves as a vehicle for hip roof carpentry study. For previous installments please look to the archive or label index to the right of the page.
Here's the third mortise, this one for a face aplomb leg tenon:
Three down, five to go.
Here's the other one of those, top-side view, completing the rough mortising for the legs:
And a look at the entry side for that mortise:
That close up tells me I could still hack a bit more material out of the hole. 4 down, 4 to go.
Before I start on the mortises for the long-side braces, I decided to trim the ends of the beam to the line - here's the process at one end:
It came out okay considering the saw is a bit dull and has a couple of wayward teeth. It's time to replace that one, though I am managing to milk a little more use out of it.
All in all, the Canarywood seems pretty decent to work so far, though it seems a little vulnerable to chipping, like the Bloodwood I did a little work with recently. I have to be cautious around the edges of the mortise with paring passes slicing out from the opening. It saws cleanly, and chopping/paring is not too bad at all. We'll see how it planes soon enough.
Next installment I'll tackle the long side brace mortises, the 4 remaining holes to be dug into the beam.
Thanks for visiting today. --> Go to part X
Hi chris
ReplyDeleteFacinating read!
I am wondering how you transfer the dimentions and angles from the drawing to the wood, accuratly? print out 1:1 and place the paper on the wood maybe, or transfer measurements with the ruler, or use dividers and a printout?
Gordon,
ReplyDeleteI determine measurements on the drawing, and then apply them to the wood. No paper templates. Another god way, and the traditional method, would be to do the drawing at 1:1 scale and place the stick in question direct;y on the drawing and then transfer marks to the stick.
~Chris