tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post6935157606711636591..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: The Nest of the Lotus Flower (II)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-82108820714703021672012-07-24T20:22:06.578-04:002012-07-24T20:22:06.578-04:00Thanks for the reply, Chris.
Yesterday taking a c...Thanks for the reply, Chris.<br /><br />Yesterday taking a closer look, i found that it is only the #1000 stone that has the discoloration and slicking over on the surface when put away wet. Wiping it off before putting away seems to help, but the absorbed moisture still appears to have that effect to some degree. It isn't a big deal, only a minot inconvenience. The #6000, that I believe that we are both using, doesn't do it, nor the #13000. The #13000 is also an excellent stone, I find. <br /><br />It has always been my habit to put away the stones as is after use, and with the synthetics that I have been using for a long time, it has never been a problem. Draining them off seems like a good idea with these new stones. Flattening I do on a less regular basis than yourself, it would appear. It's true about the King stones wearing quickly, at least the red courser ones, and requiring pretty frequent attention to stay flat. I seldom touch the back of a blade to a coarser king stone, so a degree out of flat is not a concern. <br /><br />I have a few natural stones, mostly in the courser to mid range, none that I much consider a finishing stone. I have friends that have some rather expensive ones, speak highly of them, and there is the theory that a natural stone can give a better wearing tool edge, true or not? If you have two natural stones of the same degree of sharpening quality, and one is a more attractive stone, it will generally fetch a higher price. That can definitely be a factor in the higher cost range of natural stones. i always poo pooed that logic, thinking that the cosmetics of a stone is a minimally important element, then I obtained a stone that has some very pretty purple stripes running through a more neutral gray background. It quickly occurred to me that looking at it while sharpening is an enjoyable thing, and my opinion immediately changed to where if one has the budget, why not go for the cosmetics as well! Life is short....djyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08985330530360767281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-87066317499137746302012-07-24T10:26:36.269-04:002012-07-24T10:26:36.269-04:00Dennis,
thanks for your comment. Not sure how you...Dennis,<br /><br />thanks for your comment. Not sure how you put your stones away, but my habit has been to flatten and rinse them as a final step, and then I stand them up on edge atop my plastic water trough. I've never had any scum like coating form.<br /><br />And the King stones I gave up on long ago as they dish far too quickly. They do cut well. Hopefully Stu might chime in again in answer to your questions. I'm liking the 1200 so far - seems just about right as a starting stone, though I would also find a 800~1000 would work as well.<br /><br />Ward,<br /><br />good to hear back from you. The KitaYama 2000...I can't find anyone selling it online either, so I'll double check that it exactly what I have. <br /><br />As for fine man made stones vs natural, the main reason I use the man made is that they are considerably cheaper than the good quality Japanese natural stones. I'm hesitant to drop $500~$2500 (or more) on a natural stone. The one thing you do get with the synthetic stones is great uniformity of particle size, though natural stones apparently do have their advantages.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-26166482881245975852012-07-23T21:52:09.602-04:002012-07-23T21:52:09.602-04:00Chris...Thanks for the clarification via Stu. Chri...Chris...Thanks for the clarification via Stu. Chris mentions a KitaYama 2000. I have not seen this stone. I have a Kitayama 8000. Getting used to it and find it to be of very good quaility. Sounds like it is designed to remove scratches from coarser mediums or for light duty honning. Where can I find one? Second question for Chris, I wonder if you find<br />man made high grit polish stones over 10000 grit to have any advantage to good natural stones...or.Toishi. Why pay money for artificial polishers when Natural stones are so great?ward wilcoxnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-8449067087633354712012-07-23T18:27:21.054-04:002012-07-23T18:27:21.054-04:00If Stu is reading Chris's blog, I'd be int...If Stu is reading Chris's blog, I'd be interested in his comments as to whether he finds that the #1200 cuts faster than the Sigma Power #1000 hard? All in all, I find that using a cheap #800 King stone, or perhaps the King #1000 (not sure which I have), and then going to the the Sigma #1000, is a faster way to sharpen. I would want to purchase a Sigma stone that cuts along the lines of the King in terms of quickness, and then where next going to the Sigma #6000 would be a good transition. <br /><br />I also notice that putting the stones away wet, that they tend to get a skum like coating on them, where they change color and it makes them slick on the surface. At least the #1000, and possibly the #6000 as well, A Nagara stone rubbed over will clean it off. It could also be the residue from the steel that causes that if the stones aren't washed off after use. It hasn't been my habit to wash off stones after use. Yesterday I wiped the stones off after use, forgetting to later check the results, so today at the shop I can see if the color change persists, and also if simply washing off after use alleviates it.<br /><br />Informative thread.djyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08985330530360767281noreply@blogger.com