tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post6007921833836017148..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (4)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-5470482967620190062018-01-23T18:28:46.245-05:002018-01-23T18:28:46.245-05:00Martyna,
I appreciate the follow up. My favorite ...Martyna,<br /><br />I appreciate the follow up. My favorite creators of things in wood are those unnamed craftsmen who built the finest Ming period furniture.<br /><br />Simplicity? In form or in detail? I'm not generally a fan of simplification for its own sake. I'm more interested in creating the best thing I can, and I do not shy away from things which are complicated.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-67231990857842963792018-01-23T13:57:58.287-05:002018-01-23T13:57:58.287-05:00Very interesting Christ. Thank you for your messag...Very interesting Christ. Thank you for your message.<br />Peter Zumthor, before he became a star architect, was working as a carpenter. And he moved to architecture at the age of 40.<br /><br />do you have your favourite designers, architects, who build beautiful things using wood?<br />wood likes simplicity :)<br />Martyna Bizdrahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18097965586943197568noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-21772924643023557562018-01-23T09:16:08.028-05:002018-01-23T09:16:08.028-05:00Martyna,
thanks so much for your comment!
I writ...Martyna,<br /><br />thanks so much for your comment!<br /><br />I write about all of the topic you mention, and more. I hope you will find things of interest to read here. There are nearly 1000 posts now, so there is a fair amount to wade through.<br /><br />My favorite wood? Probably mahogany, then bubinga. I also am a big fan of Alaskan Yellow Cedar. and Port Orford Cedar.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-57184786613343604102018-01-23T06:55:20.732-05:002018-01-23T06:55:20.732-05:00Chris
Hello, and a Happy New Year.
I found your ...Chris<br /><br />Hello, and a Happy New Year. <br />I found your blog as I was searching for a carpentry blog. I studied architecture and art, and I am very interested in the materials, fabrics. <br />I will go through your blog. Do you write about the qualities of wood, architectural constructions, furniture?<br /><br />Which type of wood do you like most?<br /><br />Be well!<br />MartynaMartynahttps://ecohealthlab.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-987539607699646182017-12-31T19:29:56.263-05:002017-12-31T19:29:56.263-05:00Karl,
thanks for the comment. I'm not entirel...Karl,<br /><br />thanks for the comment. I'm not entirely sure what the injury to my fingers is. It's weird, not exactly like a tendon strain. I think the idea of warming up is a good one, and I do try to do that, including keeping the heat blasting on my hands during the drive in.<br /><br />But, if I can do paid work at home, designing and drawing, etc., then I will do that rather than skulk around in a freezing shop.<br /><br />Glad to hear that you've figured out a way to stay afloat in the furniture business. It's not easy.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-36516189746042791232017-12-31T15:44:43.133-05:002017-12-31T15:44:43.133-05:00Aloha Chris,
Sorry to hear about your finger injur...Aloha Chris,<br />Sorry to hear about your finger injuries. I commiserate as I had my first tendon injury over twenty years ago. I'd like to think that 3 more injuries later, I am more careful. We don't have that kind of cold here, but working on the big wood solo will never-the-less always involve risk as we get older. (Read up on drummers like Max Weinberg's struggle with tendinitis.)<br />So I "planned" a transition strategy to work "smarter, not harder" that is still evolving. Since Oahu is a competition to stay on the island and costs are high for shop space and overhead, I had little choice. With 9.5 million of my closest "friends" visiting every year, tansus are working out. As you pointed out in earlier posts, hardware is the key. So making my own keeps me ahead of clones, and bridges the gap between jewelry and furniture. And I can ship world-wide.<br />But I digress. Take the time to warm up and prepare your digits for work and read up on reducing stress related injuries (if you have not). I have a little arthritis starting up where the old injuries happened, but I think that I will be OK for a while. Time wins in the end.<br /><br />aloha kakou,<br />Karl <br />Karl Carvalhonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-61317510768664569572017-12-30T10:58:27.344-05:002017-12-30T10:58:27.344-05:00To follow up from the preceding:
If the question ...To follow up from the preceding:<br /><br />If the question is whether Honduran Mahogany is a good functional choice or not, we have to address what 'functional' means exactly. If it is in any way connected to the idea of 'fitness for purpose', which I think it is, maybe more than any other aspect, then what determines such fitness?<br /><br />To me, in the case of a drawer, the performance of a wood is a combination of how good it is in compressive strength, stiffness, and in bending strength, all relative to how dense the wood is. <br /><br />If you look at this page: https://www.rtcmade.com/2017/08/30/why-birch-plywood/<br /><br />you will find an analysis of such things with various domestic wood species in the US. He found that Hemlock had the best compressive strength relative to density, and that hickory had the best ratio of bending strength to density, comparing among 32 species. <br /><br />If I plug in the values one can obtain for Honduran Mahogany for compressive strength, density, and so forth, it comes out 2nd on his list for ratio of compressive strength to density, and 4th on his list for ratio of bending strength relative to density. And it comes 10th on his list when looking at the ratio of stiffness to density. <br /><br />All in all, I don't think there is a better all around performer than Honduran Mahogany, and that is without factoring in its reasonable cost, availability in a wide range of sizes, easy workability, excellent stability in service, and excellent rot resistance. Comparing the overall score for Honduran relative to that list on that fellow's site, it comes in second overall to hickory, which, after all, is not available in wide quartersawn or thick configurations, and it has poor durability.<br /><br />I would be interested in comparing Cuban Mahogany with the Honduran in the above respects, but getting data points from which to conduct any analysis is a problem. I wouldn't use it for drawer interior parts anyhow, as it is too precious for that.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-32170319401248970982017-12-30T09:00:41.072-05:002017-12-30T09:00:41.072-05:00Mitchell,
thanks for your comment.
The use of Ni...Mitchell,<br /><br />thanks for your comment.<br /><br />The use of Nickel silver is very much in line with Ming period work, where paktong (白銅) was employed, paktong being essentially the same thing as nickel silver. In fact, German metalworkers developed nickel silver in effort to copy paktong in the mid 1700s.<br /><br />In response to your comments about my drawer designs, well, for starters I am not trying to "reinvent" drawer 'geometry'. I am taking an idea from the 1950's, the NK drawer from Scandinavia, and executing it with some refinements of my own. NK drawers were done in a version which had half-blind dovetails at the side. I happen to find dovetailed drawer sides a little tiresome as a motif, and want to do something different, though i have considered doing the half blinds all the same. I know that Ming drawers employed dovetails, though drawers are a bit uncommon in Ming furniture in general. After reconsidering, I choose to do mortise and tenon again. The drawer front to side connection is no weaker as a result, and it is no more difficult to execute in cut out, so why not? <br /><br />As to, "...this necessitates two stopped grooves per drawer front, which is something to be avoided" - why? The groove in question is simply a shallow extension of the mortise cut into the drawer front to receive the drawer side tenon. There's nothing forbidding or daunting about cutting a stopped groove, any more than there is in cutting the mortise. If I were thinking to cut the grooves with a grooving plane, that would certainly be a tool ill-suited to the task, however I'm using a router, or my milling machine, to do it. Even if i chose to only use hand tools for the task, cutting a stopped groove for all of 3/4" is a simple task with a chisel.<br /><br />Secondary woods: sure, i've thought about this a fair amount. I still may employ avodire for the drawer sides, pending upon whether I choose to spend some additional money on that or not. As the design stands now, I'm using Honduran mahogany for everything but the drawer fronts. It's not a heavy wood, rather a medium weight wood. I fail to see how the use of Honduran Mahogany will make the drawer significantly heavier than if I made the parts from plywood or pine, say. How is Honduran mahogany in any well less functional than any other species? This makes no sense to me. In fact, due to how superbly Honduran mahogany behaves in the stability department, it is rather an ideal wood for drawer parts I think. It is an ideal wood in which to cut joinery. It is quite stiff and strong relative to it's weight, which makes it ideal for all parts in drawers.<br /><br />I might add too, that in terms of what is conveyed by the shedua drawer fronts, which otherwise are suggesting to the viewer that the entire drawer is shedua (which, with drawers as large as these, would make for heavy drawers), the use of Honduran Mahogany for the rest of the drawer parts is in fact their use as a secondary wood. <br /><br />I choose to use Honduran mahogany for the drawer bottoms because the very wide stock I chose to buy for the project allows me the luxury of doing the drawer bottoms in one piece, almost all quartersawn, instead of gluing up boards or recourse to plywood. The main reason secondary woods were used in the past is to economize on costly material, however I do not see that point of that argument here. Honduran mahogany is in fact the least expensive wood constituting the cabinet, and the price point of the cabinet is enough that such economies are not, well, merited. I am not looking to cut corners in my work, though many makers in the past, east and west, have been forced to do so or, perhaps more often, have chosen to do so. I object to the idea that putting cheaper woods in places 'the client doesn't see' is somehow virtuous - rather I see it as quite the opposite in fact. <br /><br />In answer to your question then, I chose to employ Honduran mahogany for the drawer parts because it is a highly functional choice and this decision involves no input from the client. <br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-86201969355509055662017-12-30T06:21:06.700-05:002017-12-30T06:21:06.700-05:00I'm looking forward to seeing what you create ...I'm looking forward to seeing what you create with the nickel silver. It's a material that I always associate with musical instruments. I know you take much of your inspiration from Ming style furniture, I know for a fact that they also employed halfblind dovetails in their pieces. I think it's an interesting task that you trying to reinvent drawer geometry. I am trying my very best to not leave a comment along the lines "why don't you do it this way". <br />I suspect that the mortise of the lower M/T joint is an extension of the groove that will receive the drawer bottom. Since you don't want to put a similar groove along the top part of the drawer front, this necessitates two stopped grooves per drawer front, which is something to be avoided. In my best diplomatic jargon, I ask: 'have you considered attaching the sides to the drawer front with two halfblind dovetails at the thicker sections of the drawer front? It can also be possible to add a rabbetted edge that the tailed sides slide up against to eliminate any gap developing over time.<br />I want to ask you also about your idea of secondary woods. I've seen modern Chinese versions of Ming furniture that are completely made of Hongmu species: drawer fronts, sides, backs, and bottoms. These create very heavy drawers, which say more about the expense of the piece and less about the design and function, relating to giving the clients what they want even though the clients don't know what they want. This might be less diplomatically worded, but are you choosing to use Honduran mahogany because it's what your clients expect rather what might make for a functional drawer? Again, I enjoy the efforts you put into your craft and your willingness to share the process.<br />Happy and prosperous new year to you and your growing family.<br />-Mitchell Potomackerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02047837559244141708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-17322240320947614642017-12-29T17:31:03.833-05:002017-12-29T17:31:03.833-05:00Julio,
thanks so much for your kindness. While I&...Julio,<br /><br />thanks so much for your kindness. While I'm certain there are far more interesting woodworking blogs out there, I'm glad you enjoy visiting here too. All the best to you for 2018 as well!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-37345055698126839132017-12-29T17:09:38.947-05:002017-12-29T17:09:38.947-05:00Hello Chris !
What can I say ? just wonderful to ...Hello Chris !<br /><br />What can I say ? just wonderful to see your blog as always and happy to learn what is impossible to see in any other site of the net. Please have a great holidays, merry christmas and my best wishes to the new year !<br /><br />From spain your devotee Julio Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com