tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post4734027623946852862..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: A Square Deal (25)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-6258768421801383432014-10-29T21:23:29.558-04:002014-10-29T21:23:29.558-04:00David,
thanks for your comment and questions.
So...David,<br /><br />thanks for your comment and questions.<br /><br />Some of the bubinga on the side table has been finish planed initially by super surfacer, though some has not. All will be finish planed when I'm done.<br /><br />The plane, as noted, is made by Kiyohisa, the trade name for the blacksmith named Watanabe Kiyoei. It is his 'kamon' model, which refers to any tool he makes with a special low-temperature 'yaki-modoshi' (tempering) process. He does that for some of his tools at 100˚, 135˚, and 150˚- mine was done at 150˚, hence the '150˚' stamp.<br /><br />The 'kamon' models are generally not sold outside of Japan, and in any case the waiting list for Kiyohisa tools is 18 months to 2 years now, just FYI.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-70490085439029501602014-10-20T18:32:20.302-04:002014-10-20T18:32:20.302-04:00John,
very helpful input - thanks!
I've been...John,<br /><br />very helpful input - thanks!<br /><br />I've been looking at software with parametric functions and it definitely has an appeal. While Rhino is not parametric, there is apparently a plug in which will give it parametric functionality - at a price of course. I'll check out Geomagic and see how it looks.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-12739215023406207122014-10-20T13:49:52.541-04:002014-10-20T13:49:52.541-04:00Hi Chris,
On the subject of CAD packages, I'm...Hi Chris,<br /><br />On the subject of CAD packages, I'm currently using Geomagic Design (formerly Alibre Design, before 3D Systems acquired Alibre). It's a fully parametric CAD suite like Solidworks (and unlike Rhino). Parametric CAD has its own learning curve, but there's immense delight in being able to whip up a new version of a design in just seconds by changing a couple of numbers. That said, CAD software isn't generally well suited to complex surface designs. There's a reason that jewelers gravitate to tools like Rhino over Solidworks (beyond just the price tag ;-).<br /><br />That said, the full Geomagic Design package includes a license to MOI (Moment of Inspiration, moi3d.com) as its surface design tool. This can be used much like Rhino, and will create standalone 3D models. These models can then be imported into Geomagic Design for incorporation into a traditional CAD model. E.g. I could produce a complex external decorative design of a part in MOI, but use traditional CAD modeling on the functional interior.<br />J. Whitleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17649079072897089690noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-58090686982032791882014-10-18T20:07:59.067-04:002014-10-18T20:07:59.067-04:00Thanks Chris. Yes, I have heard of Kiyohisa. That ...Thanks Chris. Yes, I have heard of Kiyohisa. That smith makes some darn nice chisels as well. So in Australia sells them and recommends them. Thanks for the excellent posts and the inspiring work!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15075440454691100473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-82724374434161110142014-10-18T08:15:07.126-04:002014-10-18T08:15:07.126-04:00Hey Chris,
Excellent work and joinery in this piec...Hey Chris,<br />Excellent work and joinery in this piece. It looks like the Bubinga is finish planed, is that true? Really pretty grain and finish on what I can see so far. It looks like there is a little Chinese design in those cross pieces between the legs. I agree about the "superb plane". I have seen some that look like that one but not sure. Who is the blacksmith for that plane? I see a "150" on the main blade, does that mean the 150th one made? Thanks.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15075440454691100473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-90109236842195299672014-10-18T07:47:30.772-04:002014-10-18T07:47:30.772-04:00Sylvain,
well, there will be 10 feet made, 5 for ...Sylvain,<br /><br />well, there will be 10 feet made, 5 for the side table and 5 larger ones for the coffee table. <br /><br />You make some good points about going the route of lost wax casting, which I have previously considered. I have a book on that process (Duhamel's "Bronze Casting Manual") which I've read through carefully, however, comparing approaches, it seems to be about the same amount of work for me, plus adds in the unfamiliarity of working with silicone molds and plaster. Even given a wax or plaster pattern which does not require any draft, there is still the matter of shrinkage and final machining to plan for which means the overall process is no simpler really. It might be cheaper, however the sand casting option was quite inexpensive already.<br /><br />I obtained that book on lost wax casting as I was originally planning to tackle this aspect of the project myself, however it means more time for me and the risk of experimenting, and the purchase of at least a modest amount of equipment, so I started to consider farming out this work. <br /><br />The CNC route appeals the most as it is more direct than the casting methods, and I have confidence that it will be within 0.005" of the design, with minimal work required afterwards. Any machining marks can be dealt with by me using files and/or abrasives, and subsequent machine shop work would be limited only to fitting the cap screw and circlip.<br /><br />I'll wait and see what the price is on the CNC option though before deciding which way to proceed though! <br /><br />I do appreciate your input and it helps me clarify direction giving me an opportunity to think over the issue again.<br /><br />~C Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-15277999160346773562014-10-18T04:58:32.315-04:002014-10-18T04:58:32.315-04:00If you have to produce only four feet, you don'...If you have to produce only four feet, you don't need a pattern that is able to resist to hundreds of uses.<br /><br />Producing patterns with a 3D printer might be a cheaper option.<br /><br />Otherwise, maybe, make a first pattern in plaster, make a mould with something like silicone and produce a few (4 + some extra ones) patterns in wax (or maybe in plaster if it is adequate for the foundry).<br /><br />Maybe I am wrong but I think that a wax pattern is less work for the foundry as they don't need to take the pattern out of the sand before pouring the bronze. There is also no need for "draft".<br /><br /><br />Sylvain<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-15796579496622970362014-10-17T22:44:49.324-04:002014-10-17T22:44:49.324-04:00J.T.
most kind of you to comment, and I appreciat...J.T.<br /><br />most kind of you to comment, and I appreciate your enthusiasm. Don't worry, more joinery lies ahead!<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-80044763105471323072014-10-17T22:01:48.581-04:002014-10-17T22:01:48.581-04:00CHRIS;
Looking good! It is nice to see a...CHRIS;<br /> Looking good! It is nice to see all the small details coming together! Can't wait for more joinery!<br /> J.T.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com