The follow up from yesterday's (er, this morning's) post. I've received emails from people over the past 10 hours wondering about a few points in the sequence that I showed in the previous post depicting the steps to cut a dai to receive a plane blade. Frankly, I wasn't really thinking too much about trying to document every step in the process, and occasionally I simply forget about the camera for a while. So, my apologies if there were a few gaps in the sequence.
At the end of yesterday's post, I had the blade fitted to the dai, nestled in there at a 60˚ angle, sans chip-breaker:
The next steps were to condition the sole of the plane. No pictures, but if readers are interested in a detailed post on how to do that, I'd be happy to oblige at some point in the near future.
Anyway, with the sole conditioned, and the blade sharp, I tried taking a few swipes on some curly bubinga. The result:
No doubt about it, a 60˚ bedding angle means no tear-out in this otherwise recalcitrant material. I could plane in pretty much whatever direction I wanted with no tear out.
I then tried to capture a low angle view in flat light to give an idea of the surface quality, but once again my photography skills were not up to the task. I snapped picture after picture and the results were all kinda lame. But what the heck, here's a picture anyhow:
The surface, given the Type 2 shavings produced, is not quite as glassy as can be achieved in some more cooperative plane-friendly woods, but it was nice to have no tear-out and the surface was better, I felt than what I would have produced with a card scraper.
I then grabbed a piece of Canarywood, the material I made that Mazerolle sawhorse from a few months back. I had problems with tear-out at the time. The piece I grabbed had nice straight grain with a slight slope, and seemed about as ideal as possible for regular old planing. So I grabbed my Ichihiro finishing plane, bedded at 37.5˚ or so, and took a pass down one face - it planed perfectly! what could be easier? Then I flipped it over 180˚ and took a pass down the opposite side face, and it tore out - that's Canarywood for you. It's very unpredicatable.
So, I grabbed the new 60˚ plane and cleaned up the tear-out with no issues:
Then I decided to set up a planing beam. I grabbed a chunk of 8/4 Canarywood, and ran it over the jointer and then planed it, finishing out close to 1.8". I set up one end on a window-sill, and then needed to make a stand for the other end. I found a piece of 8" x 8" pine out in the yard, then cleaned it up, jointed it, and then cut the end square. A few swipes with the plane to dress it more tidily:
And it was ready:
Not a perfect surface, but as it rested on the oily floor, I wasn't too bothered.
It was nice to run the plane over some pine after all these pit viper woods the past while, let me tell you!
Here's where I am marking the top of the chunk of pine for the slope of the planing beam:
Time for a little Sawing for Teens:
And that is where I forgot to take more pictures, however I'll be sure to throw in a picture in the next post or so showing the planing beam set up. It works well and the Canarywood is pretty rigid and flat. Nice looking wood too!