tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post990885071063625140..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: Ramping Up for New Action, 2Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-74776312223898333532011-02-02T09:40:59.342-05:002011-02-02T09:40:59.342-05:00Aaron,
sorry for the delay in getting to your com...Aaron,<br /><br />sorry for the delay in getting to your comment. The problem with back beveling the blade, as I see it, is the added bevel complicates the sharpening process. I will be using that blade in two different dai, so I don't want to reconfigure it. <br /><br />Glad you enjoyed the posts!<br /><br />~ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-71102903451616984522011-01-28T12:14:54.934-05:002011-01-28T12:14:54.934-05:00Hi Chris,
Super-informative posts on setting up a...Hi Chris,<br /><br />Super-informative posts on setting up a plane body! I wonder, has anyone you know of tried back-beveling the blade to achieve the same hi angle effect?<br /><br />Thanks, AaronAaron Rappaportnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-42464156216290012432010-12-26T18:31:30.499-05:002010-12-26T18:31:30.499-05:00Marv,
thanks for letting me know. I will try to o...Marv,<br /><br />thanks for letting me know. I will try to oblige in the near future.<br /><br />~ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-19582416809052812852010-12-26T17:55:59.856-05:002010-12-26T17:55:59.856-05:00Chris, I would be interested in a future post abou...Chris, I would be interested in a future post about conditioning the sole of the plane.<br /><br />MarvKoothttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12392313015470432114noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-7863225329064560932010-12-23T00:26:59.327-05:002010-12-23T00:26:59.327-05:00Steve,
the opening opposite the blade, at least t...Steve,<br /><br />the opening opposite the blade, at least the upper section of it, is not a particularly important part of the plane set up as the shaving is not produced in contact with that part of the dai. Generally, the angle of that slope is a mirror image of the angle of the blade. Around 45˚ is fine otherwise.<br /><br />Give the ash a try and let me know how it works out.<br /><br />ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-86261356824749790702010-12-22T21:12:31.692-05:002010-12-22T21:12:31.692-05:00Great Blog Chris! What angle did you use for the...Great Blog Chris! What angle did you use for the opening opposite the bedding surface? Is there a relationship with what angle the blade is set at? I am making a 45 degree dai with air dried white ash which has been difficult to cut due to the combination of hardness and elasticity of the wood. This may also be a good species to cut a dai from.Steve Vroegopnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-91598357027320387362010-12-22T11:24:59.646-05:002010-12-22T11:24:59.646-05:00Hi Wilbur,
sure, historically Japanese planes wer...Hi Wilbur,<br /><br />sure, historically Japanese planes were made with high angles if the material necessitated it. Any cabinetmaker, for instance, who worked much in S.E. Asian exotics, what the Japanese call kara-ki, 唐木, lit. "Chinese wood", would have employed, and still employ, a lot of files, scrapers and high angle planes.<br /><br />For example, take a look at the video on u-tube showing one such shashimono-shi working with a difficult dense kara-ki, and at 7:57 in the video you will see a glimpse of one such high angle plane:<br /><br />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m67JNG3rASg<br /><br />That plane appears to have a bedding angle around 70˚!<br /><br />Since working with such difficult exotic wood species is a somewhat minor slice of the woodworking picture in Japan, what we've been exposed to for the most part over in the west have been daiku working softwoods with the typical 35˚~40˚ bedded planes. And those are the typical tools that have been sold over here as well.<br /><br />As an example at the opposite end of the plane set-up spectrum, those sashimono-shi who work kiri (Paulownia tomentosa) a lot use planes bedded around 22˚~24˚, and due to the perversely abrasive nature of the otherwise soft material, have to sharpen a great deal.<br /><br />~ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-79232568517880204512010-12-22T10:28:39.216-05:002010-12-22T10:28:39.216-05:00Hi Chris,
Impressive results! Do you know if his...Hi Chris,<br /><br />Impressive results! Do you know if historically Japanese planes (not counting scraper planes) were made with angles this high? Clearly you can make a dai with whatever bed angle you want, but I have never seen one with a 60º bed angle, and even Japanese planes with a bed angle much above 40º seem to be pretty rare.Wilbur Panhttp://giantcypress.netnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-63020824912174431492010-12-21T22:26:41.703-05:002010-12-21T22:26:41.703-05:00Dale,
it's a little harder to pull for sure....Dale, <br /><br />it's a little harder to pull for sure. I haven't enough time with it yet to give a thorough-going review. we'll see how it goes. i suspect a 54 mm would be a more ideal width.<br /><br />One of the woodworkers upstairs in the building lent me his new Lie Neilsen scraper plane, so I'm playing around with that at the same time as this new 60˚ plane, and the LN appears to work well too. One way or another, a lot of planing and scraping lies ahead with this bubinga!<br /><br />~ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.com