tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post7073478737788718281..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (1)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-35124657040915451532017-12-05T10:03:25.929-05:002017-12-05T10:03:25.929-05:00Jim D,
I did come across that kerfing plane in a ...Jim D,<br /><br />I did come across that kerfing plane in a search last week, however I also have a 3mm Japanese grooving plane which does a similar thing, so it is not something I need. I think I will be getting good results though with the saw blade I purchased, so that's how I will proceed. We'll see what happens.<br /><br />Thanks for your comment and suggestion!<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-72254205633799013242017-12-05T07:57:20.575-05:002017-12-05T07:57:20.575-05:00My mentor Mark Duginske (author of Bandsaw Handboo...My mentor Mark Duginske (author of Bandsaw Handbook) told me a few years ago that when resawing really wide stuff, he makes an initial kerf around the perimeter on his tablesaw, just as described in the last comment. I have done that when hand-resawing a narrower board than what you're doing (20" walnut) with good results. Possibly you've also thought of the "kerfing plane" approach - - - I think Bad Axe Saw sells kits for those and a resawing frame saw. (oh, here it is. http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/kpfs.php) Good luck! And thanks for letting us look over your shoulder as you take on this wonderful project.Jim D.https://www.blogger.com/profile/09793788789446338672noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-56978289297387166432017-12-05T06:09:59.305-05:002017-12-05T06:09:59.305-05:00Hi Jonas,
I didn't receive a previous comment...Hi Jonas,<br /><br />I didn't receive a previous comment from you - sorry, that seems to happen sometimes, I have no idea why. Thanks for trying to post a second time.<br /><br />As to your suggestion, yes, I'm way ahead ahead of you - great minds must think alike - and have already ordered a custom Guhdo 360mm rip saw blade with a 1.6mm kerf. it actually arrived last week, however they goofed up on the size of the drive pin hole, so I had to send it back to have the proper hole put in the saw plate. I hope to have it in hand by the end of this week.<br /><br />Also, I have dropped the idea of using the French frame saw and have gone a different direction. <br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-72058635475090730782017-12-04T23:42:54.137-05:002017-12-04T23:42:54.137-05:00Chris,
No worries. Furniture factories used to (an...Chris,<br />No worries. Furniture factories used to (and probably still do) have a tradesman called (among other things), the toner. His job was to match defects (usually sapwood) to the rest of the piece. It was an honorable skill and usually commanded the highest pay on the floor. Woman were especially good at this and got respect in a male dominated world.<br />I have been trying to "read" the Millennials as potential clients. As obscure as they are, Mid-Century Modern is a slam dunk here. (Think Eames and Wegner.) Japanese seem to be attracted also. A lot of it is walnut, and that's where I find the toners handiwork the most. With the rapidly decreasing availability of suitable material to work with (the overall subject of this post) having another trick in the bag to get that extra inch or foot gives me more design freedom.<br />http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Factory_Finishes_for_the_Small_Shop.html<br /><br />KarlKarl Carvalhonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-79432688954045562512017-12-04T20:16:52.834-05:002017-12-04T20:16:52.834-05:00Hi Chris.
I think my last comment must have vecto...Hi Chris.<br /><br />I think my last comment must have vectored into the cyberspace.<br />Could you install a tall fence on your table saw, and then resaw all way around each board that way.<br />I know that it won't get you all the way, but it would remove say 8" in total from the board. In addition it would give you some kerfs to follow with the hand saw.<br />You might need to do a couple of passes increasing the depth of cut to avoid burning, but it would mean less work with the hand saw in the end.<br />Brgds<br />JonasJonas Jensenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07787393233185454227noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-58615240698494859312017-12-04T19:55:09.955-05:002017-12-04T19:55:09.955-05:00Karl,
thanks for the follow up. I've exposed ...Karl,<br /><br />thanks for the follow up. I've exposed myself to enough chemicals - by choice, in involuntarily, knowingly, and unknowingly - that I have come to a point where I want to reduce my contact with them to a bare minimum.<br /><br />I have a friend that has all sort of health problems as a result of long term exposure to lead paint dust, etc., etc.<br /><br />That link you provided was interesting. I hadn't heard of that company before. Beautiful labeling of their products - reminded me of Tiger Balm labels. <br /><br />Sounds like you have a greater depth of experience with finishing than I do. I only have started using dyes with the recent project work on bubinga, and there is much to be learned yet. Generally I am of the persuasion to let wood be the color it is, but can see the skill in coming up with a seamless repair to something with perfect matching using dye work on the new material. I've done very little furniture repair so far.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-9409497590275236942017-12-04T18:07:02.613-05:002017-12-04T18:07:02.613-05:00Chris,
No argument there. K2Cr2O7 is as toxic as i...Chris,<br />No argument there. K2Cr2O7 is as toxic as it goes. I use that tool from the kit when repairing historic architectural millwork or museum repairs. Nothing else comes close. Of course, chem gloves and lab aprons are used. Very little if anything goes into the waste stream. Everyone has to make their own decisions about safety.<br />If I go to dyes, I use something my father brought back from Singapore about 40 years ago. He was the district rep for Mohawk, Constantine, Howards, Flecto, etc…..you get the idea. These dyes from http://www.limtecklee.com/ are all you need for 95% of color matching. Pure color, they are mixed to match everything from oak to ebony. I use pretty much only the chili red and black to get most everything. It’s the only colorant that matches keyaki exactly.<br /><br />Karl<br />Karl Carvalhonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-22745603066332985642017-12-03T16:49:18.611-05:002017-12-03T16:49:18.611-05:00Karl,
thanks for chiming in.
I would welcome it ...Karl,<br /><br />thanks for chiming in.<br /><br />I would welcome it if you started a discussion on the topic you mention on the CW forum. <br /><br />As for the Potassium dichromate, I have looked at that, and it certainly is effective, however there are some drawbacks compared to aniline dye:<br /><br />-application controllability/consistency is not as good as with aniline dye, especially between pieces<br />-it is corrosive and poisonous, unlike aniline, which is merely poisonous, so respirator goggles and gloves are mandatory. Potassium dichromate is toxic via the skin, the eyes, swallowing it and inhaling it. It is classed as a cancer-causing substance. Though it is not flammable itself, because it is a strong oxidizer it can cause combustible materials to ignite.<br />-In the U.S., federal, state and local laws regulate its disposal, which is neither easy nor cheap--users are responsible for compliance.<br />-over time, the color change fades considerably.<br /><br />The aspect that I like about the aniline dye method is gradual fade over time, and the replacement of that by the woods natural oxidation. You need to wear gloves to apply it, that's about it.<br /><br />An article I read on the topic (https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/adding-age-to-cherry) also noted that chemically treated pieces of wood lose their effect relatively quickly and that chemically treated pieces were impossible to distinguish from wood treated using safer methods in a few years. <br /><br />So, I think i'll experiment with the dye, if I go that route at all, as I prefer the lesser toxicity and risk of it.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-42601289412235928922017-12-03T15:18:40.646-05:002017-12-03T15:18:40.646-05:00Aloha Chris,
So much to comment on. At least you ...Aloha Chris,<br />So much to comment on. At least you have admitted your addiction to the Cuban. I got the bug doing a museum reproduction, and yes, you cannot get enough of it.<br /> I have a lot of info regarding the abundance of woods grown here, yet considered rare elsewhere; the effects of soil conditions on wood quality from island to island ( we are like the Galapagos Isles in that regard); and genetic anomalies that koa wood hunters dream about. (Ever hear of the Mother-of-Curl Koa?) And local sources.<br />As a non-participating member of the CIW Forum, maybe it’s time to start something there. It is too big a subject to begin here.<br />Two other things:<br />1) The light colored Ebay mahogany looks like the Fijian plantation grown material. https://www.google.com/search?q=fijian+mahogany&oq=fijian+mah&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.6919j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8<br />2) Have you tried potassium dichromate to age your material? It’s worked for me for years. Its result is the oxidation of the tannic acid content (high in mahogany) to its natural color. Just watch your concentrations.<br /><br />Karl<br />Karl Carvalhonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-36841682400822421552017-12-03T10:08:32.351-05:002017-12-03T10:08:32.351-05:00Marc,
thanks for your two comments, and though I ...Marc,<br /><br />thanks for your two comments, and though I did not post the second one, I was a little puzzled. I checked the link you mentioned, and it does indeed have "a colon between the section "https" and the following two slashes". I also checked with the linked company after adding it several days back to see if it was working, and they said "yes". <br /><br />And, I'm wondering how you would know, as a reader, whether the link was working or not working?? Please email me if you like as I would like to learn more.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-38247310319634933062017-12-03T03:40:47.935-05:002017-12-03T03:40:47.935-05:00I guess you are going to get all the fun, huh? ;)
...I guess you are going to get all the fun, huh? ;)<br />Your decision for "hoarding" special wood reminds me of a sentence of Mathieu from OostenWind:<br /><br />"Forget about risking your savings on the stock market. Buy some trees, have them resawn by the carpenter who will build you your house. Stack the wood carefully and allow it to air dry for at least five years and you have just earned more money than you could make on any savings account."<br /><br />And to second someones comment: If anyone should transform such wood into a new life, its you.<br />I can't wait with what you came up design-wise this time.<br /><br />MarcMarcnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-6034547956265952652017-12-03T02:24:21.393-05:002017-12-03T02:24:21.393-05:00I have "a stash" of matched Walnut and m...I have "a stash" of matched Walnut and matched figured cherry, couple of sets of 4-6 boards each. and pick up quarter-sawn sycamore when I have "pocket change". About 25 years ago someone offered 6 boards of 100% pure all black Gaboon ebony 3/4x 9" wide and 7 foot long!!, I only purchased one..which is about 4" x 3' now......kicking my self ever since. So yes I agree.."see it....buy it" wont see again....and I'm still jealous!Joe Mnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-91616094813201556692017-12-02T20:19:55.763-05:002017-12-02T20:19:55.763-05:00Yep, at least that is how it seems to work for me....Yep, at least that is how it seems to work for me. Always looking for better wood and better tools and better methods. It's a game of diminishing returns and receding horizons, but i have come to like it I guess.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-22157168316818556442017-12-02T20:18:59.311-05:002017-12-02T20:18:59.311-05:00Well, the two chunks that have been cut are for th...Well, the two chunks that have been cut are for the purposes of obtaining a pair of front doors in which the view of the tree trunk, via the slab cut, is accomplished with two panels, the flatsawn portion centered between the doors. So, that's why those two blanks are cut in the manner they are. <br /><br />The other panels will be arranged either with the cathedral in the middle, in the case of the top panel, or as edge-joined VG panels for the base floor and middle floor. If I find a bunch of movement in the resawing however, then I will elect for the plane down, and have the cathedral centered. I tend to avoid the portion of cathedral only because I strive to keep wood movement to a minimum, and thus can have smaller expansion gaps between panel and frame. While VG can cup, flatsawn can bow, so I'm not sure one is a greater risk than the other for resawing.<br /><br />Does my approach seem like a reasonable way to proceed? Plan for'x', be ready for 'y'...Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-53596508173489435422017-12-02T18:46:46.365-05:002017-12-02T18:46:46.365-05:00Since you have the material and since you plan to ...Since you have the material and since you plan to cut these by hand it might be best if you plan your boards so that you save the center rather that splitting them down the center. The outsides, which will likely cup, can then be ripped down to thin stock which might then be useful elsewhere in the cabinet. <br />I would make both cuts simultaneously to maintain the stress level of the board. <br /><br />Safe to say you can ditch your workout routine for the length of this exercise :)<br />Brian Hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06207345071092915936noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-47168656120398648442017-12-02T18:23:37.360-05:002017-12-02T18:23:37.360-05:00Yeah, those odds may well be lowered at these widt...Yeah, those odds may well be lowered at these width, but time will tell. I'm going with a 48" length for the French saw - great minds think alike I guess? Maybe I need to visit a local gym and find someone looking for a novel kind of lat workout to take on the work?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-25672496796369531162017-12-02T18:20:50.597-05:002017-12-02T18:20:50.597-05:00I guess we'll just have to see what happens wh...I guess we'll just have to see what happens when saw meets wood in a few weeks....<br /><br />Worst case is I end up planing a bunch of material down, and I am ready or that eventuality while being hopeful that the resawing will work.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-77800900399360495392017-12-02T18:15:29.987-05:002017-12-02T18:15:29.987-05:00So, basically woodworking has *two* financial dang...So, basically woodworking has *two* financial dangers? Collecting expensive machinery and expensive woods. ;-)<br /><br />Good luck with the re-sawing. May your saws be sharp and your cuts be straight!Roland Smithhttps://rsmith.home.xs4all.nl/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-28716476064681944512017-12-02T17:22:42.583-05:002017-12-02T17:22:42.583-05:00Wonderful information. Thanks for all the research...Wonderful information. Thanks for all the research.<br />I sincerely hope the resawing works, even though the 22-27 inch width seriously lowers the odds. A long French frame saw (maybe 4 foot blade @ 3 tpi) sounds great for the job.<br /><br />Then, you'll find out why the Japanese guy is dressed the way he is. The sweat from the hard work goes somewhere; gravity rules.<br /><br />Enjoy the dark chocolate!Bob Eastonhttps://bob-easton.com/blognoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-16380183334937010592017-12-02T17:04:47.495-05:002017-12-02T17:04:47.495-05:00I think you’ll be fine resawing that stock, I’ve g...I think you’ll be fine resawing that stock, I’ve gotten mixed results but one thing that mahogany has done that others have not is to return to flat when cupped after resawing. Not to say that it certainly will, but if it does cup then give it a few days or weeks to sit. I’ve also had better results if I sacrifice the outside slices and make them veneer thickness, they tend to hold the majority of the stress in my experience. Oddly enough I have the most trouble with quarter sawn material, it often bows to the point where it is nearly impossible to work with. Predictably it always bows.Brian Hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06207345071092915936noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-60056522700399374742017-12-02T16:42:01.439-05:002017-12-02T16:42:01.439-05:00I apologize if any jealousy was induced by my deci...I apologize if any jealousy was induced by my decision to stockpile wood which I am confident I will not be able to obtain in the future - and i do get you will probably find a way to continue living despite this information :^)<br /><br />If it is any consolation, my 'inventory' as such, remains modest. There are probably millions of people out there with far vaster reserves of wood than I have. <br /><br />With every project though, the situation becomes clearer with respect to good material: it's always more expensive, always not quite the same quality as last time.<br /><br />I'm looking to employ a small amount of Macassar ebony on this project for example. I have contacted many suppliers from coast to coast and i have found that all they have nowadays is 3" wide short sticks, The odd bit of old stock in wider widths you come across has typically been picked through and what remains has indifferent or poor figure, loads of cracks and check, etc.. Shoulda bought it when I coulda...<br /><br />That's a lesson that gets repeated again and again. So long as I have the dry storage space, I'll try to acquire fine wood when I can. I would suggest you do the same if you can.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-26011052534026308402017-12-02T16:33:55.029-05:002017-12-02T16:33:55.029-05:00I read the post with great interest and enjoyed th...I read the post with great interest and enjoyed the information, but when I got to the end and read you will have a 48" board "in inventory".........I'm seriously jealous!!!!<br />Thanks Chris.Joe Mnoreply@blogger.com