tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post7065288308426191321..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: A Ming-Inspired Cabinet (23)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-4892181667175813252016-01-10T22:23:35.786-05:002016-01-10T22:23:35.786-05:00Joe,
thanks for the follow up. A cold environment...Joe,<br /><br />thanks for the follow up. A cold environment has no effect upon wood movement. Only relative humidity, and the rate at which a given wood takes in or releases moisture will contribute to wood movement.<br /><br />As for 'period types of joints', I use all the joints you listed regularly and I have no concept of that use having some sort of 'period' aspect, any more than I would self describe as a 'blended woodworker' a term which I find odd. The joints you list are within the scope of ones I use, and I also happen to use a lot of joints which are outside the scope of Western woodworking traditions. Those nonwestern traditions employ all the joints you mention as being 'period'. To me, any sense of a 'period' aspect to joinery would be a choice to use an archaic form of a joint for some reason. You'll see that in Japan with certain temple rebuilds, where they keep the joinery to an archaic pattern because that is what was used previously.<br /><br />The frames I am working on right now use draw-bored pegged tenons, and there are through tenons in a number of places in this cabinet. I generally avoid the use of single dovetails outside of a couple of specific contexts, as I view them as a mechanically poor, glue-dependent connection. <br /><br />My impetus to reduce my dependence upon glue and to rely upon the joinery instead, a personal quirk of mine to be sure, has lead me to employ/develop certain types of joint types over others. If I was using glue, my joinery choices would be different, as would fit tolerances. Fit tolerances for glued joints, however, also require precision work.<br /><br />I have several pieces of furniture in my home which I have built - described here on the blog - and which employ the sort of joinery you are seeing in the current project, pieces like the tsuitate, coffee table and the vanity, along with the andon. I get to see how locked miter joints, etc., behave over the year, and the seasonal rh shift in New England is fairly pronounced. I have not seen an open miter once. <br /><br />To me these joints are very strong and yet able to accommodate seasonal movement without breaking. I would describe these type of connections therefore as resilient. Isn't that another way of saying they are forgiving?<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-36338157205788691232016-01-10T22:01:38.230-05:002016-01-10T22:01:38.230-05:00Chris, "when glue-up takes place" was a ...Chris, "when glue-up takes place" was a goof-up...I should have said assembly.....In my work...american and english period furniture, I feel there is a different level or type of precision. in that the level of precision that you do is of less tolerances. I agree that a sloppy joint is never desirable and of course avoided. But the period type of joint (dovetail, through, pegged mortice etc) are more forgiving than the keyed,wedged joints in your style of construction. Which I find very interesting. I "tip my hat" to you for your skill and craftsmanship.<br /> I was just wondering if the changes in moisture did effect the fitting of the keys and joints over time and if you found yourself "adjusting" the parts because of the change. I think I remember that your shop does get very cold during the winter. Wood movement effects us all, learning to deal or compensate with it is the trick. But usually shows it's head at the most inopportune time...after finishing or delivering!!!<br />Thanks for taking the time to answer.<br />Be safe<br /> Joe Mnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-25740810554617552382016-01-10T18:28:09.529-05:002016-01-10T18:28:09.529-05:00Joe M,
thanks for the comment and questions. I ap...Joe M,<br /><br />thanks for the comment and questions. I appreciate your regular readership.<br /><br />Your question about moisture and wood movement - - I'll bounce it back at you. If you cut a joint sloppily, and the moisture content changes, do you think it likely that the fit of the joint will somehow improve, or get worse, or what? Does being able to measure wood dimensions accurately somehow affect how one would design and cut parts in relation to wood movement? <br /><br />Moisture release, when a joint is cut, does happen, however, the effect is only pronounced when working with green lumber. The material I am working with is very dry and barring sudden immersion, is not going to experience significant dimensional change in the time I am working it. Just the same, I tend to keep joined parts together when they are in a period of stand-by prior to final assembly. That way they move together and any little micro-compressions can occur within the joint and be accommodated.<br /><br />And what's this talk of "when glue-up takes place"? What's that? Do people do that? <br /><br />I jest of course, but when is the last time you saw a glue-up on this blog? Not to say one won't be happening in the future, mind you.<br /><br />As for the recently-machined planks, I may or may not make use of them on this project, and if they are used at all, I'm imagining they will be part of some re-slicing for drawer parts or the like. I already have a mix of VG and curly bubinga on this project, and while I want to keep the mix composed of fewer rather than more elements, I suspect the material from the 9/4 slabs could be incorporated into the cabinets fairly seamlessly if the time comes for that. I think the color matches well as it is, and if it didn't there are solutions available for mitigating color differences when applying finishes.<br /><br />~C<br /><br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-8233990142431283932016-01-10T15:12:47.628-05:002016-01-10T15:12:47.628-05:00Kerrry, I think it comes down to being familiar w...Kerrry, I think it comes down to being familiar with the machines, in a shop of several people, then the "Measuring indicators" should not be trusted and always checked with test cuts etc. , but on your own machines, not abused, then you become trusting on the "Measuring indicators" whether they are digital, analog or just tick marks on a tape measure. <br /> Chris...with measuring down to the .001ths have you needed to account for moisture in the wood around the joints? Exposing new wood surfaces to the atmosphere. Tight fit at the time of machining, but later after some time, when glue-up takes place, have you encountered any problems?<br /> Lastly, the planks you just surfaced look real nice. From the photos, they match each other well. How do they match up in color to the wood you are using now?<br />Great work Chris, Keep the posts coming!Joe Mnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-73465041304683234742016-01-09T18:06:10.626-05:002016-01-09T18:06:10.626-05:00Kerry,
appreciate the comment. I think there are ...Kerry,<br /><br />appreciate the comment. I think there are ways to get into a position of greater trust with machine measurement indicators, but I don't have all the answers quite yet.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-78123371526489805562016-01-09T17:44:47.259-05:002016-01-09T17:44:47.259-05:00Re: accuracy of gauges on power tools. As a compl...Re: accuracy of gauges on power tools. As a complete dude some 30 years ago, the shop supervisor told us, "And don't trust the measuring indicators on the table saw or jointer; they are only put there to fool you". Heh. (Granted, they were not digital, but the principal holds.)Kerryhttp://sacrecoeurwoodshop.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.com