tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post4709757140958243884..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: French Connection 9Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-76084437649822263142013-02-08T14:36:27.788-05:002013-02-08T14:36:27.788-05:00Hey Chris,
I'm glad to see you back at the Maz...Hey Chris,<br />I'm glad to see you back at the Mazerolle! My own carpentry drawing exploration has been on the back-burner as well, but your new series may inspire me to give it another look.<br /><br />Good luck,<br />Tim<br />Tim Moorehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09629429704217731021noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-36827676146605960172013-02-06T14:42:21.143-05:002013-02-06T14:42:21.143-05:00Priit,
good to hear from you. I have various tool...Priit,<br /><br />good to hear from you. I have various tools and techniques for laying out angles. I use a framing square of course, and various bevel gauges, along with straightedges and rules. <br /><br />A traditional method is to draw the piece at some scale and then set a bevel gauge to the drawing for the required angles, or draw at full scale and place the sticks directly atop the drawing and transfer up the marks from paper to wood.<br /><br />I didn't follow that full scale layout method for the sawhorse I did previously because I made the thing in my kitchen and simply didn't have the floor space to do the drawing. So, I used my calculator to work out the trigonometry, giving me the angles, then set the angles using framing square and bevel gauges. <br /><br />With this project, I'll probably do a full scale drawing for at least some portion of it. The disadvantage of a full scale drawing crops up in the odd place where the line produced by the drawing is short and the potential for inaccuracy when applying a bevel gauge or direct-transfer of tick marks is there. In such cases, i often calculate the true angle and then use my framing square. also, if there are angles which appear in several places, I will set the angles first on a pitch board which I can return to later and use to reset the bevel gauge.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-19289016436611574842013-02-06T14:30:26.163-05:002013-02-06T14:30:26.163-05:00Hallo Chris
I can not say very much about design o...Hallo Chris<br />I can not say very much about design of sawhorse, because You are so far ahead, but if <br />You start making it ,what kind of tools are You using to carry angles from computer to the wood (lets say that in computer You have a line 37,61 degrees to another or whatever and this angle should be drawn to the wood). Is there any special technique ? I have seen Japanese are using rather thin squares in marking process(have no idea how they keep them precise-from dropping to the floor and get damaged etc ?), but it would be more interesting to know more about it. Probably angle measurement should be avoided and replaced with two 90 degree straight lines with certain length and needed line comes with help of the lenght of these lines. If You understand, what I mean ?<br />Regards<br />PriitPriit Miljannoreply@blogger.com