tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post3571117422591233797..comments2023-11-05T06:16:56.961-05:00Comments on the Carpentry Way: The Word is Out: MulletAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-74796511936919172452012-10-14T14:28:40.594-04:002012-10-14T14:28:40.594-04:00Dennis, water is something I had not considered fr...Dennis, water is something I had not considered friendly to a wood working environment until planing some cypresses and cedars. It is entirely interesting to me that you would dip and rip dry cabinet parts. Is this prior to joinery? What was the wood? <br />Correy<br /><br />matsukazehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06817526163910833093noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-88032844420227077542012-10-13T19:55:42.580-04:002012-10-13T19:55:42.580-04:00Dennis,
thanks again for sharing your tales. Inte...Dennis,<br /><br />thanks again for sharing your tales. Interesting as always.<br /><br />~ChrisAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-87966879810260282452012-10-13T19:28:01.525-04:002012-10-13T19:28:01.525-04:00In the workshop in Matsumoto, there was a well tha...In the workshop in Matsumoto, there was a well that was always bubbling forth clean cold water into a small concrete holding pond. Just about everything that was machined and later to be hand planed, was dipped in the water there, except things that had been glued up. The parts from various cabinets and such would be stacked up on the perimeter of the pond to dry, it was in the shade under a roof. Doing that was a factor in terms of to what dimensions things were machined to, the grain being raised would affect how much wood needed to be removed to finish plane a panel, for example. Knives were kept pretty sharp, so you didn't get too much fuzz coming up. Good to take a drink from the pipe there spewing water and sometimes some watermelons would be floating about. Sizing blocks were the gauges of choice. Ah, sorry about the nostalgia....djyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08985330530360767281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-4239841416992905622012-10-13T14:45:11.076-04:002012-10-13T14:45:11.076-04:00And I wanted to add that that was a good point abo...And I wanted to add that that was a good point about making the panel slightly slimmer so as to allow room for final finish thickness.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-33778631184200878692012-10-13T14:40:00.734-04:002012-10-13T14:40:00.734-04:00Correy,
a well-considered response with lots of d...Correy,<br /><br />a well-considered response with lots of detail - thanks!<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-87422844918032071532012-10-13T14:30:45.852-04:002012-10-13T14:30:45.852-04:00The gauge block, mullet ( I prefer mine steamed), ...The gauge block, mullet ( I prefer mine steamed), is essential for panel work. You can slide the piece all around or along and edge to verify thickness. For most any furniture work you need at least .005~.01 narrower panel for finish film thickness and just plain ease of assembly. Entry doors and the like will swell in service from the shop environment typically. Is most typical to use a cut off from the existing door stock being used. Though when working with expensive woods ( $25 BFT and up) , off cuts are still plenty, it is most economical to mill a 24~36" piece of medium density generic hardwood for set-ups along with your stock used for the project. Sure you could compress the block after time. But for a half dozen panels your fine. If you had a library job maybe make a block from denser woods. The block should be fresh with each project that way. The block is most beneficial when hand planing the edges to thickness. Most shaper produced profiles should be constant after the initial set-up and remain so through the run. Panels should not rattle but should not squeeze in either.<br />I have a few woods that you simply can not machine profile to actual thickness and you may have to remove as much as .015 by hand for final finish to avoid tear out and flaws. A caliper is probably best used when coming off the shaper, planer,moulder where the edge thickness is the same ( we hope ) along it's length. YOu check in a spot or two and it should read the same everywhere else. I think the block gauge invaluable when dealing with the subtleties of hand work.matsukazehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06817526163910833093noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-321399179897852432012-10-13T11:10:26.170-04:002012-10-13T11:10:26.170-04:00Tom,
thanks for your comment.
Another strategy o...Tom,<br /><br />thanks for your comment.<br /><br />Another strategy one could use when fitting a tongue to a groove in a non frame and panel context (i.e, tongue and groove joints) is to insert a stick into a groove when it is slightly too narrow. Drag the stick along the groove to compress the grain and make the groove slightly wider before inserting the tongue. Then, after fitting, a little moisture along the seam between the two pieces would swell the compressed wood in the groove back to tightness around the tongue.<br /><br />~C<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-57063801627994534802012-10-13T11:06:23.416-04:002012-10-13T11:06:23.416-04:00Dennis,
absolutely. As for a more practical optio...Dennis,<br /><br />absolutely. As for a more practical option, I simply measure with calipers. If I consistently made panels of the same thickness, I'd look at getting a steel gauging block (mullet) made.<br /><br />~CAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-32568754388595944402012-10-13T11:04:27.897-04:002012-10-13T11:04:27.897-04:00Tico,
that makes good sense, and i suspect would ...Tico,<br /><br />that makes good sense, and i suspect would be standard practice, however you're need to have generous length with at least one of the frame members to make the mullet.<br /><br />~C Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14328401081765407624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-77851806825877500762012-10-13T07:29:12.484-04:002012-10-13T07:29:12.484-04:00Chris
A while back I saw a photo of you with a &#...Chris<br /><br />A while back I saw a photo of you with a 'reverse mullet'... long in the front and short in the back. Just kidding! There was a photo where you were gauging the thickness of something with a LV set-up block. Since the human fingers are SO sensitive, this seems like a good way to avoid the problems with a regular mullet. At least until Leonard Lee starts producing the anodized aluminum mullets with laser engraving in a fitted box, accurate to 0.05 chipmunk whiskers.<br /><br />Long live live OED!<br /><br /> Tom tomausmichigannoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-12042057678193280502012-10-12T20:14:10.767-04:002012-10-12T20:14:10.767-04:00I have heard that hairstyle referred to as a "...I have heard that hairstyle referred to as a "bushy bushy bon bon". Hockey players, you say......djyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08985330530360767281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-84795243901461009882012-10-12T19:58:27.434-04:002012-10-12T19:58:27.434-04:00Chris,
As a gauging block it must make sense, it...Chris, <br /><br />As a gauging block it must make sense, it is still quite commonly used in some places. Is there a more practical option? The potential problem with the gauge becoming corrupted is the same as with mortise samples, that a lot of guys keep around to size tenons to. Especially with a hollow chisel type mortisers that will leave an already damaged and more vulnerable mortise wall, repeated use will oversize them and end up causing a too tight fit. "Crack" will tell you it is too late to rectify not having made a new sample. Lazy is the nemesis of clean woodworking.djyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08985330530360767281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261993076995357307.post-76543312484227923312012-10-12T19:36:36.456-04:002012-10-12T19:36:36.456-04:00An offcut from the current door job you're wor...An offcut from the current door job you're working on would be your molet du jour, I suppose. It would not be a permanent type of tool for the reasons you cite.Tico Vogthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15743565097341810389noreply@blogger.com