Post 57 in an ongoing series describing the design and construction of a kabukimon, a type of Japanese gate. This is a project for the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Post 1 in this series can be found here if you'd like to start at the beginning. Each post links to the next at the bottom of the page. Recent installments also to be found in the 'Blog archive' index to the right of the page.
Another snowstorm rolling in this afternoon. I'm no longer surprised by such happenings. If it keeps snowing like this though, the MFA garden might still be buried a month from now, making the gate installation schedule a question mark in my mind. I've heard total snow accumulation in Boston is something over 5' (1.5m), and there hasn't been any warm weather to melt any of it away so far this year.
Managed to get a few more hours in at the shop this morning, which allowed me to complete most of the remaining tenoning work on the door parts:
The top and bottom rails for the side door have the twin 10mm tenons, while the side door battens have the single 10mm tenon:
I was able to reconfigure the tenon heads fairly easily to cut the single tenons - you can just see a small band of protruding end grain which was not trimmed, however this will be simple to clean up later.
Another view of the pile of rails and battens for both doors:
There are tenons yet to cut on one end of the main door battens, and I will probably cut these on the shaper as well. I will need to re-stack the cutters on one of the Zuani heads. If it isn't workable, the tenons can be readily cut by other methods are they are single tenons not twin.
There are some tasks to be done yet on these tenons, including haunching, and it really shouldn't take too much time at all to work my way through the pile. I've found that with the Martin shaper it has been straightforward to keep to a +/- 0.1mm in terms of target dimensions.
I forgot I have an Aigner Distometer (a specialized tool for measuring shaper cutter height/projection relative to the table or fence) which I could be using to possibly refine the dimensions a bit more, however I don't think it is necessary. I would like to experiment with the Distometer though to see how accurately the spindle height can be set. It's a powered raise/lower affair, and the readout is in 0.1mm increments, so I'm curious to see if I can obtain better accuracy.
A tenth of a mm is equal to about 0.0039", for reference's sake, for those who find themselves blanking out or getting distracted when metric values appear anywhere in view (not that such would describe any readers here of course).
All for now - have a great weekend! Up next is post 58